Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and tourists alike celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Recently, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a prestigious list of global cities and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it becomes part of a international community of cities cities across over 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "demonstrates its profound gastronomic legacy and lively culinary scene," as stated by a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this historic city comes as no surprise to its locals or avid food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, bustling, and diverse city – the capital of India's biggest state – is at last in the limelight for what has always shaped its heart: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a ongoing discussion from morning until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, evolved, and raised to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of food experimentation, blending Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases seasonal produce but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on many street corners, there are little shops and stalls – lesser-known gems that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, presented in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a no-frills joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and complicated. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but say that their children are unwilling to master the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will inspire more people around the world to learn these narratives and visit the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
